Aperitivo is one of Italy’s most charming traditions and one of Florence’s best kept secrets. By the time I arrived here, in fact, I was under the impression that the term was just a rough translation of the English “cocktail.” I wasn’t so far from the truth, as, in terms of history and etymology, that is what it is. Somewhere in Turin some years ago, some gentleman invented something called vermouth, paired it with light snacks and proposed it as an “opening” to the evening meal.
Over two centuries aperitivo has evolved to become the evening meal. Nowadays, it is customary for the locals en route from work to stop by a favourite bar or club, partake in a cocktail with friends and enjoy a veritable buffet of pastas, vegetables, finger sandwiches, salads and, yes, even light snacks.
A leisurely aperitivo eliminates the hassle of preparing a proper meal after a long day at the office, and it comes at a much smaller cost than dinner at a restaurant. On average, the price for one drink and access to the spread is between 7 and 10 euro. The second course (the one involving meat) is not a typical component of aperitivo. A choice of first courses (pasta or rice), a number of side dishes and a selection of breads and sauces usually make up the evening’s menu. In bars, you are likely to find the day’s left over sandwiches on offer as well, and, in some venues, you may even find ethnic dishes.
Hours for aperitivo are usually between 7 and 9 p.m. The locals tend to arrive a little later, so follow suit if you’re looking to fit in, but be sure not to wait too long. The kitchen only prepares as much food as it expects to serve. If you really want to get a seat, avoid the locali near movie theatres and avoid them especially on Wednesdays (when the new releases are featured). If, on the other hand, you opt for aperitivo on a night of Fiorentino soccer, you are sure to have your choice of tables at any venue. Trendy Aperitivi in Florence
Be sure to dress your best if you don’t want to stand out as un-Florentine
Oibo (Greci 1, near Santa Croce) open at 7:30p.m., cost €8 www.oibo.net 055-2638611
Rifrullo (Via San Niccolo 55/r) open until 10:30p.m., cost €10 www.ilrifrullo.com 055-2342621
Neroni (Via dei Renai 17) open at 7 p.m., cost: €8, adult clientele www.negronibar.com 055243647
Zoe (Via dei Renai 13/r) open at 6p.m., cost: €8, student clientele 055-243111
Dolcevita (Piazza del Carmine) open 7:30p.m, cost: €10 www.dolcevitaflorence.com 055-284595
Boston T (Viale Europa 160) open at 6p.m.. cost: unknown www.boston-t.it 055-6533307
Rosso Rubino (Viale Europa 96/98) cost: unknown www.rossorubino.eu 055-6584924
Florence Touristic Aperitivi
You can get away with a T-shirt and jeans, but you’ll miss out on authenticity Noir/Ex Capocaccia (Lungarno Corsini 12/14r) cost: €9-10 www.noirfirenze.com 055-210751
Slowly (Via Porta Rossa 63) open at 7p.m., cost: unknown www.slowlycafe.com 055-2645354
Colle Berto (Piazza degli Strozzi 5) open until 10p.m., best Thursday, cost: unknown 055 283156
Alternative Aperitivi in Florence
Here you’ll find good food, many students and a dose of counterculture
Kitch (Viale Gramzci 1/3/5) open 7:30p.m., cost €7, student clientele, 055-2343890
Tangram (Via dei Serragli 3/r) light aperitivo, cost: €3.50 www.tan-gram.it 055-2382431
Strizzi Bar (Via G. Mariti and Viale Redi) open at 6p.m., cost: €3, student clientele
Serafini (Via Gioberti) open until 8p.m., cost €6
Cafè Deluxeè (Piazza Indipendenza) open at 8p.m. live music, www.cafedeluxee.com 055-485749
Florence Seasonal Aperitivi
Great outdoor venues serving exceptional food, but only during weather permitting months
Moba Villa Bardini (Costa San Georgio 4) open at 7:30p.m., cost: €10, beautiful views
Hotel Minerva (Piazza SMN 16) Thursdays, cost: €15 www.grandhotelminerva.com 055-27230
Traditional Florence Aperitivi
The locals’ choice for food and ambience... and a scarcity of tourists
Pigmento Cafè (Via Erbosa 12/r) cost: unknown, live music, www.pigmentocafe.it 055-6584766
Boston T (Viale Europa 160) open 6p.m., cost: unknown www.boston-t.it 055-6533307
Rosso Rubino (Viale Europa 96/98) cost: unknown www.rossorubino.eu 055-6584924
Cafè de Paris (Piazza Dalmazia 7/r) cost: €7 www.cafedeparis.it 055-4220505
by Theresa Schroedervia: firenze.net |
